INTRODUCTION TO THE JAGUAR
(extract from the original
Having purchased your boat, you will no doubt be familiar with the thinking
behind the Designer's thoughts when creating the Jaguar 21. We do not
set out in this manual to teach the owner how to sail, since we assume that
he or she has prior experience. However, we are confident that you will
have many hours of pleasure with your friends and family in your new boat,
and to help you use and maintain your investment, we offer the following
information. The items are laid out in the order in which we feel you may
deal with fitting out, having just taken delivery from the Builder, and
based on our experience during many hours of trials.
In the interests of personal safety before walking about on deck, either
afloat or ashore, the boat should be securely chocked in a level position,
and the stanchions and lifelines should be fitted. It may be that they are
fixed when the boat is delivered or collected from the Builder. However,
for general reference, the lifelines will have been threaded through the
tops of the stanchions, with an eye spliced at either end. Enter the stanchions
into the bases on deck in the corresponding order either side, and lock
in position with the pins, bolts or screws provided.
It is best to grease the inside
of the base sockets when this is done; it will help if you want to remove
them at the end of a hard season, which could be difficult due to dirt and
salt corrosion. Attach the forward ends of the lifelines to the pulpit with
the rigging links provided.
Attach the aft ends of the
lifelines to the pushpit with the lanyards provided, reeving and threading
all of the lanyard, leaving enough only to tie off and secure the lashing.
To prevent the lashing coming undone, it can be bound with self-adhesive
tape. The forward attachment to the pulpit should also be taped. The tension
on the lifelines should be moderate. After a certain amount of initial use
the lines will stretch and slacken, and this should be taken up and made
off as already described.
Place the mast on trestles or some sort of support just off the ground.
Dress the mast, which means arranging the rigging so it is ready to hand
when the mast is stood up on deck.
Place the wire rigging down
the correct Port or Starboard side, together with flag halliard, which can
be made off on the small plastic cleat provided. Pull both ends of the foresail
and main halliards to the bottom of the mast on their respective fore or
aft sides. Before doing this, it is important to 'tie a 'figure
of eight' knot in the bottom of the rope tails of these halliards, to
prevent losing the ends inside the mast. Attach the spreaders to the stainless
roots, which are about half way up the spar, and secure in their swept back
and slightly up position with the locking bolts provided.
Pull the main cap shrouds
down and place in the small notch at the outer end of each spreader. Fix
the shroud to the spreader with soft galvanised or stainless steel seizing
wire, using the small hole provided, also at the end of the spreader.
To prevent the possibility
of the sails catching on any sharp end of the seizing wire, we recommend
you tape over the end of the spreader and the shroud, but when doing this
make sure the spreader is pushed fully in an up position, and.the shroud
is stretched tightly in the downwards direction. This allows for the rigging
to stretch without distortion to the spreader roots, when the full load
is taken on the mast when under way.
If you have fitted a spinnaker
halliard and spi. pole lift, make sure that they pass
out of their respective top exit sheave box and down to the deck through
the stainless steel eyes, which are attached to the mast just below the
exit sheaves. These eyes are to maintain a fair rope lead to the sheaves
when the halliard and lift is being used.
Attach the larger rigging
screws (or bottle screws) to the main cap shrouds, and the smaller to the
lower shrouds. Make sure that the bottle screws are fully extended with
a minimum 5 full threads at each end entered into the barrel.
Tie off the rigging in order
to the bottom of the mast. A light string or masking tape can be used. Don't
tie off any further along the mast from the bottom than you can reach when
the mast is stood up on deck. Finally, check everything again for the full
length of the mast, and make sure that all shackles that will be aloft are
tightened with pliers, and that all split pins are entered and properly
Do not attempt to erect the mast in a high wind. Place the mast along the
centreline of the ship, with the top hanging over the transom, and the bottom
adjacent to the mast step, aft side down. Fix foot of mast to step with
the pivot pin, and make sure to secure with split pins either side. Attach
the lower shrouds with bottle screws to the eye bolts on the cabin roof,
having separated them from the other wires, and the mast should be ready
Ideally it is best to stand
the mast up with three people, pushing up from the cockpit hand over hand
with two until the mast is upright. Then the third person can separate the
forestay, which is of fixed length, and attach it to the eye bolt on the
foredeck with a shackle while the other two hold the mast vertical. Having
already fixed the lowers to the deck, this will help support the mast athwartships
as it goes up. Again, separate from the mast, and fix the main cap shrouds
to the eye bolts in the side decks, which then make the mast safe.
When the mast has been safely
stepped, and to ensure it is straight before the sails can be set, the following
adjustments must be carried out in the following order:-
(i) Tighten the forestay shackle
(ii) Take up the slack on
the main cap shrouds, making sure that the same amount of threads are taken
up in both bottle screw barrels - this will ensure that the mast is
upright, which is important.
(iii) Finally, tighten these
main shrouds down with a moderate amount of tension.
(iv) The lower shrouds are
next, and should be adjusted in the same way as the main shroud, but the
final tension on these lowers should only be slight. Also, great care should
be taken with the final adjustment, since these particular shrouds will
control the straightness of the mast athwartships, so sighting up the aft
side of the mast when final tensioning is made, is essential.
(v) The backstay bridle can
now. be fixed, one leg of the bridle fixed to the Starboard, and the other
to the Port pushpit, to the loops provided, with stainless steel shackles
or rigging links. Tie off the bottom of the backstay to the top of the bridle,
with the lanyard provided. The tension applied should be such as to bend
the top of the mast slightly aft.
(vi) Next, check all the rigging
and make sure all the bottle screw locknuts are tight and that all split
pins are turned and taped up. This must be done in the interests of safety,
due to wind vibration on mast and rigging, even when the boat is moored
and not in use.
(vii) Finally, after you have
sailed your J.21 for, say 5 to 6 hours in moderate wind strength, the standing
rigging supporting the mast will settle in, stretch a little and slacken.
The rigging should be tightened up in the same manner as described in items
(i) to (vi), and following the same order. Failure to make these adjustments
affects the performance of the boat whilst sailing, and causes undue wear
ATTACHING MAIN BOOM
Attach the boom to the mast via the goose neck fitting. It is a good idea
to apply a little oil or light grease, making the fitting run easily. The
boom can be held horizontal by using the main halliard as a topping lift,
attaching it to the aft end of the boom with the snap shackle, and cleating
off the rope tail to the mast cleat.
Having supported the boom as described, the mainsheet can now be fitted,
again make sure that any split pins are turned and taped.
The kicking strap is a four part system and its attachment to the mast and
boom, together with its adjustment and use under sail is mentioned later.
GETTING UNDER WAY
The combination and selection of sails to be used will depend on the skipper
and the prevailing conditions, and will vary with the experience of the
helmsman. However, during many hours of cruising and trials before the production
of the J.21. we were very pleased with the flexibility of the of the sailing
With the standard sails set,
i.e.. Mainsail and working Jib, a very good all round performance is achieved
in wind strengths up to force 4-5, above this taking a reef as required
in the Mainsail. Even with the shortened sail area, the boat behaves very
well in the heavier weather without interfering with her balance. In moderate
to heavy winds she will handle well under Jib alone. - The ability
to sail under Headsail only, we found very convenient for entering marinas
or confined water under sail, not to mention the greatly improved all round
vision obtained without Mainsail on approaching mooring or jetty.
If you have bought a Genoa
as an extra with the boat, you will find this will improve even further
the light weather performance. In fact, with a fairly heavy crew of three,
she sailed very fast with the Genoa set in wind forces up 5 during racing,
with a good result.
The spinnaker is quite generous
in area, and makes for good speed down wind especially for racing. Spinnakers
can be very exhilarating to fly if handled properly, by a competent crew,
so we would recommend any owner without such knowledge to seek advice, or
better still have one or two practice sessions with an experienced person
before attempting to set a sail of this kind.
Whilst the boom is still supported by the main halliard, attach the clew
of the sail to the boom by inserting into the aft end of the boom the plastic
slides which are sewn to the sail. Attach the tack end of the sail with
Reeve the outhaul with a 'figure
of eight' knot at the aft end of boom, passing through the sail round
the cheek block on the side of the boom into the clam cleat further along
the boom, and take up the slack.
Insert sail battens into their
respective pockets in the sail, i.e., long at the top, short at the bottom,
and two medium length in the middle.
Follow the luff of the sail
through from the bottom to the top, to remove any folds or twists and insert
the head board into the luff groove entry. The main halliard can be attached
to the sail with snap shackle, and the sail is ready to hoist. Make sure
to uncleat or slacken the mainsheet and kicking strap before doing so.
Except when reefed, the mainsail
should be hoisted as high as possible - a last tug on the halliard
before 'dealing off will enable you to feel the plastic ball stop reaching
its highest point. The surplus rope halliard tail can be coiled away at
the foot of the mast.
To tighten the kicking strap,
apply a fair amount of weight on the mainsheet, this will enable you to
exert a good amount of tension on the kicking strap. This is essential if
it is to fulfil its function of preventing the boom from lifting, when reaching
or running before the wind. Thread and make off the Cunningham hole line
and the mainsail is ready to use. The adjustment to the Cunningham and outhaul
lines are mentioned under 'Tuning'.
(b) Genoa and Jib (Headsail).
Hank the sail to the forestay in the usual way. Attach the halliard, and
hoist it until the tack of the sail is approximately 6" (15cm) above
the deck, and make fast. The luff of the sail is then tensioned by the small
block and tackle. Do not hoist the headsails so high that the halliard wire
to rope spliced seizing becomes exposed out of the bottom of the mast sheave.
This will cause unfair wear. The halliard should always be cleated off with
the seizing just inside the mast and off the bearing surface of the sheave.
The headsails should be sheeted wth the sheet itself falling between the
main and lower shrouds to the fairleads, which should be 6" from the
aft end for the Genoa. Final position of the fairlead is mentioned under
'Tuning'. It pays to reeve the sheets before hoisting the sail.
A spinnaker should only be flown with experience as already mentioned. The
setting arrangement we recommend has the halliard and spi pole lift leaving
the mast and leading back to the cockpit.
Fine tuning of the mast and sails will make the rig efficient, or to put
it another way, "make your engine go faster", not to mention the
kinder wear and tear on the boat. The final tuning should be done under
way, when sailing in conditions typical for your area. This can be accomplished
with the following adjustments:-
(a) Tuning Mast.
Before leaving the mooring, make sure that the main cap shrouds are tight,
as previously described, (lets say very firm, but not bar tight). Having
got under way, and sailing on port tack, sight up the mast from the base.
If the middle (where the spreaders are) is sagging to leeward, then tighten
the lower shroud bottle screw until the mast is straight athwartships. Repeat
this procedure on the starboard tack. If the mast is bending to windward,
then the lower shroud should be slackened a litlle until the mast is straight.
When these adjustments have been satisfactorily made to the lowers, it may
be necessary to tighten or slacken the backstay so that the mast bends slightly
forward from the top of the forestay down. After tuning is completed don't
forget to lock the lower shroud bottle screws, and finally secure the back
After heavier winds, if the
wire rigging stretches slightly, it may be necessary to repeat tuning trials.
Help from an experienced sailing friend will lead to a properly tuned mast.
(b) Tuning Jib or Genoa.
When sailing close hauled the sheet fairlead should be positioned on its
sliding track so that if an imaginary line was cast from the fairlead through
the clew of the sail (where the sheets are attached) it would reach a point
half way up the length of the luff. For good windward performance the Genoa
can be sheeted in on the winch until the leach is about 2" from the
spreader. The leach line showing about 9" up from the clew should be
slackened until the sail starts to flap, and tightened little at a time
until it stops. If the line is over tightened this will cause the aft edge
of the sail to curl, which is detrimental to the sail's performance.
This applies to both Genoa and Jib.
If the luff of the sail slackens
or bellies from hank to hank, then pull on the downhaul and tension it.
The luff of any headsail should be like a knife cutting through the air.
Again the tuning of the mainsail should be carried out whilst sailing close
hauled. In light weather conditions the Cunningham hole line should be slackened
right off. The foot of the Mainsail, as you will see, is loose footed and
you will find this makes for easy sail adjustment with good effect. Slacken
off the outhaul so that the sail is 1" - 2" away from the
side of the boom. Adjust the leach line as previously described for the
Headsail. Make sure that the head of the sail is fully hoisted, and the
sail is fully tuned.
Stronger Wind Tuning.
As the wind increases it will be necessary to get rid of excess wind power
in the mainsail. This is achieved by flattening the sail, which is done
by pulling down on the Cunningham hole line, an 1" or so at a time.
The increased tensioning of the luff will cause the flow of the sail to
move aft, having a flattening effect. At the same time, if the outhaul line
is pulled on, it will move the clew of the sail further aft. This will help
flatten the sail. The amount of combination of the two adjustments will
depend of the conditions and experience gained with the passing of time.
The Keel is made of cast iron. It weighs 550 Ibs. and slides up and down
in a G.R.P. case on nylon rollers attached to the keel itself. The G.R.P.
keel case is moulded into the hull when it is laid up, which forms a one
piece moulding. This eliminates any joints below the waterline. The Keel
is lifted and lowered by means of a reduction winch, via a heavy duty nylon
webbing strap. The strap has been tested to lift six times the weight of
the keel. Always keep the winch oiled, and since the strap can be seen,
in the event of any unlikely wear, this can be observed.
Whenever the boat is under
sail the keel must be locked in the down position with the pin provided.
If you have purchased a fin keel version of the J .21 this will speak for
itself. However, the shape, section, weight and position of the keel below
the hull is identical to that of the lift keel version.
Whether you have bought a fin keel or lifting centreboard version of the
J.21 the profile shape of the rudder blade will be the same, and made of
hardwood. The rudder for the fin keel boat will be of the fixed type, with
the lifting tiller arrangement bolted direct to the head of the rudder.
The rudder assembly for the lifting keel version, as you will see, has alloy
box cheeks, again with a lifting tiller, which is transom hung as a unit,
and the rudder blade slides into the box section from the top to the required
depth. The rudder blade can be kept in the 'up' position with the
Always steer the boat with
the rudder fully down, subject to depth, and with the tiller in the horizontal
position. In both cases the tiller is of the lifting type to make room for
installing the outboard engine, and to give unrestricted room in the cockpit
on the mooring or in a marina.
The internal ballast of the lifting keel J.21 is situated in pockets under
the forward ends of the main bunk tops, approximately 115 Ibs. each side.
The fin keeler has the same, but with two extra pigs, also in floor pockets,
either side of the centre line adjacent to the keel area. The extra weight
is to allow for the lack of the centreboard case on this model. The ballast
can be removed if trailing weights require. Do not sail the boat without
ANCHORS AND MOORING
3 no. 8" mooring cleats are provided, one on either quarter. An anchor
is a definite necessity on all boats. The Builder suggests the use of the
15 Ibs. C.Q.R. anchor supplied, which together with the 4 meters of 1/4"
chain and 30 metres of 12 mm. Polyester rope, should be effective enough
in general conditions.
However, depending upon the
depth of the water, the size of swells, wind strength and changes in tidal
levels enquiries should be made in your local area or places you intend
to visit, about anchoring procedures. Be sure to ask several experienced
people, and always play it on the safe side when 'making up' your
anchor and in using it. Don't forget to wire all shackle pins so they
cannot come loose under water.
If your boat is moored in
deep water, leave the keel down. This will enable her to lay to the tide,
and the channel, along with the other boats, and not to the wind. It is
a good idea not to lock the keel down on the mooring, because in the unfortunate
event that she breaks adrift, at least if she runs ashore unattended and
the tide leaves her, the keel has a chance of sliding up, and the boat might
finally come to rest in an upright position.
If the boat is tied up to
a mooring that dries out, leave her with the keel in the locked up position.
It is advisable to lift out the rudder blade completely, and stow down below.
If you want the boat to lay to the tide before she dries out, then hang
a strong bucket over the stem.
Always lash the tiller when
leaving the boat, whether it be in the centre or to one side. The owners
of the adjacent boats will tell you. Better still as mentioned before, ask
your local Harbour Master for advice. Finally, when you leave the mooring,
make sure the halliards are stopped off away from the mast. The continual
banging and rattling of wire or rope against the side of the mast in a wind
won't help the anodised coat, not to mention causing annoyance by the
noise to your immediate neighbours at night.
As you will see, an outboard well is moulded into the cockpit, the advantages
of which over a standard transom bracket, will become apparent. At the time
of going to press two engines have been tested with success, which were
the long shafted Tomas 4 and 4.5 h.p., and the Johnson 4 h.p. Both pushed
the boat over a foul tide very well, although in each case 120 mm or 5"
pitch (respectively) were found more powerful over the standard propeller
supplied with the engine. Also, it helps to adjust the shaft to be as upright
as possible for maximum thrust. As other engines are tested by the Builder,
and prove successful, the names of these will be added to this item. In
any event, contact your local engine dealer for advice. When not in use
the engine can be stowed in the Starboard cockpit locker. If the propeller
is put in first, and pushed aft towards the transom, the power head can
set in the grip tray mould in the locker.
There is also a moulded space
for a petrol can. Both the engine and the petrol can should be secured before
sailing. As a precautionary note, never open the engine locker whilst smoking.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE AND INFORMATION.
As you will see, there is plenty of stowage down below under the various
bunks, and long open bins behind the back rests which are ideal for woollies,
coats and other lightweight items. The port cockpit locker is moulded to
stow the 15 Ib C.Q.R. anchor, gas bottle, and battery, and take other items,
such as ropes, fenders etc.
(b) Water Tank
The fresh water filler cap is placed in the forward well. This runs through
by hose to the storage tank moulded in the forward part of the cabin under
the bunks, and has a capacity of gallons. The water is then drawn by hand
pump to the galley sink. The tank has an air breather, and if overfilled
the water merely drains out into the self draining forward well, and away
over the side.
All the external teak trim should periodically be rubbed down with fine
glass paper, and a coat of oil applied with a cloth. This will keep the
timber looking bright.
(d) Hull and Deck
The hull and deck are constructed of glass reinforced polyester G.R.P. Above
the water line both the topsides and deck can be washed down with soapy
water, and polished with Simonize Wax. Any small scratches can be removed
with a light abrasive burnishing paste. Below the water line, the same will
apply. Anti-fouling paint can be applied provided that the appropriate
etching primer is used (following the instructions of any worthy paint company).
Another method is to lightly rub down the gel coat with not less than 250
grit wet and dry abrasive paper to form a keyed area. Apply one coat of
2 pot polyurethane and then two coats of anti-fouling. Following the
same method, paint the keel and rudder blade below the waterline.
Always keep snap shackles, piston hanks, hinges, gooseneck, blocks etc.
very lightly oiled, not forgetting the main hatch padlock, and grease the
(f) Sails and Ropes
Use your sails with care and attention - this will prolong their life
and performance. Fold them after use, and stow away. Never be frightened
to take them home and wash them with warm soapy water in the bath, although
if this in not convenient most Sailmakers offer a good repair and laundering
service. The Jib and mainsheet can be kept free of that nasty stiffening
when salt water dries into them - again a good wash in soapy water
and a thorough rinse will keep the ropes soft to handle.
If you intend to fit a gas stove, we advise you to enquire about any local
installation regulations or restrictions imposed by your Insurers.
(h) Training and Storage
When trailing or storing your boat make sure the hull is well supported
across the flat bottom area 12" in front of the keel and at a point,
say, 12" aft of the cabin entrance step. It is important to lower the
keel until its full weight is resting on the trailer or ground, onto a piece
A space in the forward area of the cabin is available to install either
a chemical or Sea toilet. For further information consult your local or
main agent, or the Builder.